Walking with Shepherds Walks

Christmas guided walk

Guided walk date - 20/12/09

Now this is what I call a ‘proper’ Christmas guided walk; snow on the ground, cold but crisp air and walking on hard ground. Not far off perfect!

After a bit of snow last night the group numbers had become quite depleted with many people not wanting to risk the journey, but the hardy few were certainly up for the walk. It was a case of getting a bit of walking under your belt to warm up, but still very much taking in the landscape around us, which had inspired ‘Capability Brown’ all those years ago.

The friendly rams were directly next to the ‘carriageway drive’ as if waiting for us and how tired they looked after a few hard weeks ‘working’. The Texel and Suffolk rams all looked glad to be out of the action for another year.

We were meeting Ailsa at Kirkwhelpington, who was going to show us her ‘Zwarble sheep’, but first it was a case of pushing an ambulance out which had managed to get itself stuck. After 15 minutes of hard physical pushing we could settle into hearing about the characteristics of this unusual looking breed of sheep.

From Kirkwhelpington we climbed up along St Oswald’s Way before returning along an earlier route we had followed.

The group were all glad to be back at Kirkharle and head into the tea room for a much deserved bowl of warm soup. It had been a great walk. The weather had literally been perfect and gave it the feeling of a real Christmas guided walk.

To view some more pictures taken on this walk please click here

• To find out more about the guided walks in Northumberland that are coming up please click here. 

Skywalk - YouTube film

Skywalk, Rothbury

Guided walk date - 6/12/09

On the hill we are always literally both in, and under, the weather.  “Some people walk in the rain, others just get wet.” A deep and meaningful quote by Roger Miller; we did both and enjoyed it! 

Appreciating the effect of weather on a hillwalking route was our justification and excuse for an 11 kilometre (7 miles) circular walk on the moorland above Rothbury.  Our highest point may have only been 232m (761ft) above sea level but the circular route across the moorland plateau resulted in various degrees of exposure to the elements allowing us to appreciate the influence of relief and relative degrees of shelter. 

We set-off from the valley bottom and gradually became more aware of the influence of altitude as we gained height – higher equals colder, wetter and windier.  We were to experience precisely these characteristics as the day went on!  The 6/8th cloud when we started slowly improved throughout the day, ending in weak sunshine for the descent back down into Rothbury.  In the valley it was unseasonably mild but it definitely became chillier as we climbed and was most marked on the open moorland.  The wind was negligible in the valley but its influence was particularly noticeable on some of the more exposed parts of the route. “Climate is what we expect, weather is what we get” Mark Twain.   The noon coffee stop was taken in the lee of the wall at the top of Physic Lane which was appreciated as it was “precipitating” at the time in addition to the keen wind.  This gave me time to explain about the dangers of hypothermia (combination of wind, wet and cold) whilst everyone ignored me and got on with their coffee and snacks – I’m quite used to this.  That shower gave us  the opportunity to see the first of several rainbows (clue: a showery airstream) and for me to get excited about optical phenomena but I daren’t mention the antisolar point, the visual spectrum, internal reflection within droplets etc – there are limits!


We were now more tuned-in to the various weather elements and more acutely aware of visibility fluctuations upwind as the showers approached, the gusts and lulls in the windspeed and the effect of topography on wind direction and perceived temperature (windchill).  As the sky gradually cleared we could see the different decks of high, medium and low cloud and begin to identify their different characteristics.  The lunch stop was taken in a conifer clearing illuminated by the sun – no wind and still pleasantly warm for the time of year.  We were beginning to monitor trends and relate both previous and prevailing weather to their effects on us (clothing) and conditions underfoot.  The saturated ground would be a very different experience if the temperature dropped only 6°C, it would have frozen and some of the slopes we crossed would have been difficult so say the least.    John Ruskin’s “There is no such thing as bad weather, only different types of good weather” seemed appropriate at this point.  A parallel Norwegian proverb states that “There is no such thing as bad weather, only bad clothing.” puts the onus clearly on the individual hillgoer to be properly equipped in terms of windproof, waterproof shell clothing, use of layering etc.

The idea of the walk was simply to demonstrate practically how the prevailing weather impacts on both the walker and the conditions underfoot and how these can collectively influence our response in terms of route selection, personal kit and equipment, navigation, etc.    This can easily be achieved by
tracking the general weather forecast beforehand, making allowances for the additional height and exposure on the hill and keeping a weather eye (sorry) on the sky, particularly in the upwind direction.  Hill and mountain weather can be fickle and subject to rapid changes but it is possible to establish a trend towards an improving or deteriorating outlook or even an unchanging one.  The actual weather in the uplands is always a modification of that forecast for adjacent lowlands; even the sunshine is stronger at altitude with implications for clothing, sunscreen, head and eye protection, exposure to windburn etc.  Becoming “weatherwise” requires an observant and enquiring mind and employing background knowledge in the light of both experience and actual observation. This can add a different dimension to a day on the hill.  Our light-hearted group certainly experienced plenty of humorous moments!  I hope that I didn’t put anyone off our number one topic of national conversation - “Don’t knock the weather, nine-tenths of people couldn’t start a conversation if it didn’t change once in a while”  said Kin Hubbard (American playwright and yes, it is the correct spelling of Kin).  Alternatively our own Oscar Wilde said “Conversation about the weather is the last refuge of the unimaginative.”  I would make two observations.  One, our weather changes rather more rapidly than once in a while, Kin lived under the influence of a continental climate, ours is a maritime climate and changes rather more quickly.  Two, Oscar Wilde was neither a scientist nor an outdoors person. 
I know which persuasion, I nearly said camp, I’m in.  Thank you to everyone for coming on the walk and for the seven who mentioned that they would like to do another weather walk I will add that to the list for future walks.  It will also give the Imber’s, who had to cancel, a chance to suffer and experience some of what they missed!   Please remember to provide Jon with your individual feedback on the website.  Thanks to both Marjorie and Alison for providing us with alibis (the photographic evidence) for the day. 

Thank you all for making it such a pleasant and enjoyable day, Alison and I enjoyed your company.  Merry Christmas to you all in case our paths don’t cross before then.

“Wether the weather be good, or whether the weather be bad, we’ll weather the weather, whatever the weather , whether we like it or not.” an anonymous and slightly misquoted quote and a potential metaphor for life really - but far too deep for the season.  Finally (you have suffered enough) “Everybody talks about the weather but nobody does anything about it” Charles Dudley Warner, well, I tried to provide a few insights, I hope you found it worthwhile.

Richard
7 December 2009

You can view more pictures taken on this walk by clicking here.

• To find out more about the guided walks in Northumberland that are coming up please click here. 
    

Humbleton Hill

Guided walk date - 22/11/09

After a week of rain Sundance had soft- shoe shuffled through five pairs of moccasins, the question was- had he done enough?  On the drive up to Wooler the Cheviot had its head in the clouds and a weak, watery sun was trying to shine.  By the time we had all assembled at Wooler Common car park and booted up it had started to rain!! Looks as if the soft- shoe shuffle had not worked!

As we took the road up a gentle incline to Commonburn House we walked into a stiff headwind and driving rain but by the time we reached the end of the public road and started on the farm track to Commonburn House it had stopped raining.  To help Mike recover his breath he stopped several times to tell us about grouse moors and how they are managed and also about the physical features that could be seen, which were the result of glaciations. 

After 3k or so we had a panoramic view towards Cheviot and Hedgehope, the sun and clouds producing an atmospheric feel to the area which heightened the sense of isolation.   At Commonburn House we turned right and after a short climb could see Yeavering Bell and its encircling wall, all that remains visible from a distance of the ancient hill fort.

From here we left the footpath and walked in a north easterly direction to the head of Gleadscleugh, but first we had lunch in the lee of some woodland, as by now the speed of the wind had picked up.  After lunch the next field was similar to a tiptoe through the garden but it was a bog with all the recent rain.

We now joined St. Cuthbert’s Way which for few hundred meters was again very wet and muddy, by now the rain had returned and although not being driven much by the wind it was a little uncomfortable even though it was hitting our backs.  Hold on, it’s stopped!  As we reached the Ridge of Gains Law we could get good views all round, Milfield Plain north to the Southern Uplands swinging east to the Kyloe Hills, Old Bewick Alnwick Moors Hedgehope and then The Cheviot back round to Tom Tallions Grags and Yeavering Bell.

Just east of Gains Law we left St. Cuthbert’s Way to make our way down, then right up a permissive footpath to the top of Humbleton Hill.  Humbleton Hill is the site of an ancient hill fort built about 300BC.  The other claim to fame for Humbleton Hill is the battle between the Scots lead by Archibald Earl of Douglas and the English by Harry ‘Hotspur’ Percy on 14th Sept. 1402, The Scots defeat was due to the firepower of the English archers. 

After a steep descent down the opposite side we rejoined St. Cuthbert’s Way and after another short descent we reached the car park, windblown but dry. 

As regards the weather, Sundance had not faired too badly, but must try harder for his next walk.

Guide - Mike Evens

You can view more pictures taken on this walk by clicking here.

• To find out more about the guided walks in Northumberland that are coming up please click here.

Humbleton Hill - YouTube Film

Walk in the dark

Guided walk date - 31/10/09

We were lucky with the weather, which always helps.  After a lovely autumn day, it was really warm and pleasant in the sun, the forecast for the evening and night was a deteriorating one and it was a matter of how quickly the depression and associated frontal system was approaching. 

We met at Ingram Bridge car park just before sunset and set off.  The aim was not to use any artificial light for the first hour or so to give our night vision time to adjust.  It worked really well.  As it was only two days before the new moon it was nearly full (94%) and the initially clear skies assisted out progress, by the time it was fully dark we could all see our shadows cast by the moonshine (not alcohol).  
 
We left the track and spread out to locate the remains of an excavated cairn and learnt about the importance of silhouettes in identifying features at night.  On to the hillfort of Wether Hill, another site identified by its silhouette but we also “felt” is lumps and bumps as we crossed the outer and inner walls.  On ards and upwards to the top of Cochrane Pike, our highest point at 335m/1000ft,  to orientate ourselves by the navigation lights on the mast on top of Sandyford Moor (to the NE) and the Radar Station at RAF Brizlee Wood near Alnwick (to the E).

Tonight provided another “first” for me.  I always encourage participants to have a look at our route on the free version of Google Earth when they return home.  Two people, who will remain nameless, had this application on their mobile phones and we stood on top of Cochrane Pike looking at aerial views of it and Whether Hill.  We lost the signal at Lumsden Hill which was a relief as how would I explain an injury to a client who was following his progress on his phone but fell over and injured himself in the process?

The cloud over the Cheviots to the west was beginning to build but we all got a good view of The Plough constellation and followed the “pointers” to locate Polaris, the Pole Star and were able to relate it to the position of the mast and radar station using handspans – it worked!  There was a bit of rain in the wind as we descended towards Lumsden Hill and it was a bit chilly but then it happened.  Standing with our backs to the moon we saw a very pale moonbow to the west which strengthened as we watched it so that we could discern very pale colours at one end.  The unexpected and spontaneous things are always the best and none of the clients had ever seen a moonbow before.   The Collie that accompanied us might have done but wasn’t saying.  A refreshment stop was declared to celebrate but not too long as people cooled-off quickly.  This was another lesson learned about having the right kit with you “just in case.” 

We set-off for Middle Dean to discover how difficult it can be to judge distance and slope angles even using artificial light.  There was more cloud now but the higher cloud deck of wispy cirrus really showed-off the pale pastel shades caused by iridescence when they passed across the moon’s illuminated disc.  What a contrast to the pitch blackness of the steep-sided Middle Dean valley, the pace needed to be a lot slower here.  By now everyone was much more adjusted and at ease in the darkness and quite surprised by how much they could actually see, they were adept at spotting and circumventing “the wet and boggy bits.”  So far we’d been using simple navigational techniques but now we struck off across the moorland towards Brough Law hillfort nearly two kilometres away.  We’d spent the last hour out of sight of any habitation but as we walked north farmsteads to the east and an isolated one to the west became visible.  We inspected the 360° “view” from Brough Law before descending to the valley road for the short walk back to the cars. 

A memorable night out in good company, lots of laughs along the way and hopefully we all learnt something new - and it good fun.           

Guide - Richard Holmes 

• To find out more about the guided walks in Northumberland that are coming up please click here.

Biddlestone Round - YouTube Film

Biddlestone Round

Guided walk date - 25/10/09

After several days of soft shoe shuffling Sundance Kids magic appears to have worn out.  7am dull, windy, spots of rain on the window and the top of Simonside lost in cloud, not what we had been hoping for.  9.15am although still windy it was mild and the drizzle had sort of stopped.   

By the time we arrived at Biddlestone it had brightened up somewhat.  After meeting several of the group at the entrance to the drive to the chapel a quick trip in to Biddlestone rounded up the last of the stragglers. 

After a group photo outside the chapel we were off.  We managed at least 100 meters before Mike started wittering about rocks.  Fortunately he quickly shut up and we continued the climb up from the valley on to the plateau that marks the edge of the Cheviots.  By now we had some good views over the surrounding area even though at times the low cloud obscured the far distance.  They say every cloud has a silver lining well the strong wind was ours as Mike could not compete even when he tried to witter by shouting. 

From Loundon Hill we walked down to Puncherton Farm where we swung eastwards, with the wind now on our backs and followed a path (at least that’s what Mike claimed).  In fact it was grassy, soggy, trackless waste with the occasional bog  thrown in for good measure. 

By now it was well past lunch time (more by good luck than anything else) Mike found a sheltered sunny sheep stell for lunch.  After lunch and a plodge through a stream Mike managed to find a gate that was definitely on the footpath we were following to Singmoor Cottage.  By now we were walking back into the wind which had fortunately dropped from a gale to a strong breeze. 

At Singmoor we followed the farm track down past Harden Quarry and in to Biddlestone from here we walked back up the drive towards the Chapel past the Biddlestones (thought to be the base of an Anglo Saxon Cross). 

On arriving at the chapel Mike talked about Biddlestone Hall and then gave a brief tour of the exterior of the Chapel showing the stone work of the original pele tower before we went up a flight of stairs to reach the chapels interior.  Having spent some time in the chapel and with the day light fading we left for home.

You can view more pictures taken on this walk by clicking here.

• To find out more about the guided walks in Northumberland that are coming up please click here.

Safety in the Hills Course

Course date - 11/10/09

It was a glorious start to the day, a beautiful October morning, crisp and bright as we gathered in the Ingram bridge car park, everyone was in good spirits and after the “how are you and how have you been” we headed for the National Park information centre to find out the latest weather forecasts and a kit checks, route cards and an informal chat about safety we were ready for the off, everyone was given a free WalkSOS distress banner to keep supplied by www.walksos.co.uk, this is a highly visible sheet which can be deployed to attract attention if you encounter problems on the hill, it comes with advice on how to raise the emergency services should you need to. 

 Waterproof maps were given out along with a permanent marker to note points along the way, the group were a little sceptical when told of how to remove permanent marker from laminated maps, but agreed to try toothpaste on their return home. The forecast said that the wind would come  from the North West and would gust up to 30 MPH and as we set off and walked into the wind on our first leg towards Reavelyhill Cottage all agreed that the forecast was correct, the Quick tem minute break turned into half an hour as we talked about what to do to assist one of our rucksacks which had become a “casualty” the good news is that it survived and was well cared for by the group, we had all cooled down considerably during our short stay and were keen to get moving again.

The next leg of our trip was off the beaten track and took advantage of the extensive areas of Open Access which allows us the privilege of getting off the waymarked paths, the group was split into two, one group put coordinates into a GPS device to find a Deserted Medieval Village (DMV) the GPS took the group in a straight line to the target crossing burns and an extensive area of wet ground, the other group planned a route the traditional way which was a longer distance, but arrived first, all agreed that the GPS was a great way to help you to navigate, but a combination traditional  methods of navigation and GPS was best, after the DMV the group was asked to find an “escape route” off the hill and find the nearest road, this was very successful and the Valley road was safely found.  A short session on river crossing was followed by the group leading legs on a difficult section of a route onto Brough Law, on getting to the top, the views were grand in all directions, and the day had stayed dry with only the slightest hint of a shower earlier. A short walk followed along the Valley road back to the car park.  A grand day.

You can view some more pictures taken from this course by clicking here.

• To find out more about the guided walks and training courses in Northumberland please click here.

Chillingham Ancient Park

Guided walk date - 10/10/09

With everyone assembled in front of St Peter’s Church, it was fantastic to see a mixture of old and new faces to Shepherds Walks.  There has been a church on this site at Chillingham since the 12th century and St Peter’s still has a beautiful  Norman archway to its entrance and inside houses the amazing  15th century ornate alabaster tombs of Sir Ralph Grey and his wife Elizabeth.  In the Middle Ages, Chillingham was the property of the Hentercombe family and it passed to the Greys in 1652 where it remained until the 9th Earl of Tankerville died in 1980.  The family home of the Greys was Chillingham Castle, a 12th Century medieval fortress which is privately owned by Sir Humphry Wakefield who acquired it in 1982.

With the kind permission of the Administrator and staff of Chillingham Castle, we were allowed to start our walk by entering the grounds of the castle and skirting the deep ravine of Chillingham burn.  After passing my ‘hugging’ tree, a massive wellingtonia, the lake and negotiating a couple of shall we say rickety gates, we entered Chillingham Park, home of the unique herd of Chillingham Wild Cattle. We were extremely fortunate to have Richard Marsh, Warden of the wild cattle, accompanying the group on this walk.  His knowledge and enthusiasm for these enigmatic creatures is truly infectious and his reputation precedes him. We were lucky to find a number of the cattle nearby who were closely grouped which enabled us to get a clear view of them while Richard imparted his knowledge.  The Chillingham Wild Cattle have occupied the 360 acres of parkland for over 800 years, pure bred and inbred with no genetic weaknesses that defies all scientific understanding. The herd was currently standing at 90 beasts with calves being born throughout the year with no particular set pattern. The herd is ruled by the King Bull, a beautiful and powerful beast who fears nothing.

We continued on past the Deer Hemel, a building constructed for feeding wild deer during winter, and followed the forest track and up through no-man’s land to join a wide track where we re-grouped before starting the walk in earnest. A short, sharp gradient tested the cardiovascular fitness levels of the group but the emergence of picnic tables at the top with fine views over towards Ross Castle and Hepburn Crags, soon took people’s mind off the pain.  Continuing along through Chillingham Woods and up a forest track we arrived at our usual picnic stop where we rested our limbs and enjoyed a butty or two.

Continuing along the ridge that afforded spectacular inland views towards The Cheviot, Hedgehope, Dunmoor, Cold Law, Broadhope and Humbleton Hill, to name but a few, and over to the coast where Holy Island and the golden sands of the Coastal Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty could clearly be seen. We then headed downhill for a change catching sight of a Sparrowhawk, and a number of fallow deer grazing in the distance.  Buzzards and Jays could clearly be heard overhead adding an audio dimension to this visual extravaganza.  This truly is a magnificent time of year with the leaves of the trees turning beautiful bright colours and the smell of pine being particularly evocative of the fast approaching Christmas. 

Although this was the third walk that we had undertaken this year, it never ceases to amaze me how the changing seasons have such an incredible impact on the surroundings making it an extremely special place to visit at any time.  Of course excellent company always helps and we have never been disappointed.  Watch out for the next Chillingham walk on the 8 May 2010.

You can view more pictures taken on this walk by clicking here.

• To find out more about the guided walks in Northumberland that are coming up please click here.